ChangeWe made it, sipping an Americano with a chocolate danish at the Namche bakery at 11,000', what a great way to acclimatize to the thinner air.
After flying from Kathmandu onto the mountain we enjoyed a short hike to our first camp, Phakding (you can imagine the fun climbers have with the name). Things have certainly changed over the years. Instead of tents, we stayed in a teahouse next to the river and we were shocked to find a shower and toilet in the room, amazing!
A much healthier environment than Kathmandu, there are no roads in this region of the world, the air is so pure.
Behind camp, we hiked up to a 350 year old Gompa (Buddhist Temple). Upon returning to camp, we snuggled into our down sleeping bags and in the cold dark teahouse room we slept deep for 9 hours to the hum of the river. Expeditions are great for catching up on sleep. We have one thing to do, hike from point A to point B. The hundreds of priorities that tug on all of us are gone. The nights are cold, dark, and incredibly quiet. After a good workout, we sleep like babies. Better than any night’s sleep in the US.
Next objective, we hiked to Namche, about 9 miles to 11,400'. The trail is busy with trekkers, Zoes (a cross between a yak & a cow) carrying gear and porters with loaded dokos (woven bamboo baskets). Imagine carrying 3 big loaded duffel bags plus other gear in a basket strapped to your head wearing sandals while hiking at altitude. I will never whine again as I carry my light pack.
There is nothing more beautiful than our hike through this enchanted forest of Rhododendrons surrounded by magnificent views of snow covered peaks. Then, reality sets in, the trail heads relentlessly uphill. We pass porters carrying wooden T's that they sit upon when they need a rest. Another big change, at times these porters are chatting on cell phones. No doubt there will be more changes in the next 10 years. Who knows? Maybe a monorail will connect the villages. As Zoes come down the trail, stand uphill, they do not yield and there have been a few trekkers knocked off the trail’s edge in the past.As we round the last bend, there she is, Namche Bazaar, a big village set in a natural amphitheatre, our home for the next few days.
At dinner, it was clear the climbers are excited to be on their way and closer to the start of their Everest climb. There is so much talent on this team. To name a few, Mike was a world champion dog sled racer and Greg's volleyball team won a gold medal in the Olympics. We enjoyed Ryan's 40th birthday. His father, John, and he are great friends of ours and climbing the Seven Summits as a father and son team. The dining room was filled with laughter most of the evening.
It is Easter today and our last day in Namche. We hiked up a ridge behind the teahouse to almost 13,000' to the Sir Edmund Hillary monuments. Our team is strong. The views were spectacular all morning, too beautiful to describe. We could see Ama Dablam and Everest! Our reward a chocolate danish at the Everest Bakery.
Off to the village of Deboche tomorrow, more soon...
Susan Ershler
International Speaker
Ershler International
425-889-2333
